Deutz 1011 Series Control Rod Replacement

How to Replace the Fuel Control Rod on Deutz 1011 Series Diesels

The Deutz 1011's are a series of 2 cylinder, 3 cylinder, and 4 cylinder diesel engines. You'll find these German made engines in a wide range of equipment and machinery, including Ditch Witch trenchers, Miller/Lincoln welders, and Bobcat skid-steer loaders. Their fuel system is somewhat unique in that each injector, and therefore each cylinder, has its own dedicated camshaft driven injector pump. These pumps are controlled by a common control rod, sometimes referred to as the fuel rack. The control rod is a long slotted linkage that moves back and forth, increasing or decreasing the fuel flow rate to each injector based on its position. Any damage to the fuel rack therein affects the operation of the machine. This may be indicated by an engine that will not start, that will only run at one throttle position, or that "runs away" at full throttle. Often, these conditions are the result of a bent fuel control rod that is stuck in a single position. The following procedures, though performed on a 3 cylinder Deutz 1011, are nearly identical for any 2 or 4 cylinder 1011 series engine.

This task requires several tools that aren't found in every garage. In addition to basic hand tools, you'll need the following specialty items:

• Deutz 1011 timing/alignment dowels - You must acquire a set of timing alignment dowels specifically for the Deutz 1011. They are not particularly expensive if you go the aftermarket route. You will not be able to keep the engine in time without these tools.

• Deutz 1011 crankshaft dolly - Deutz makes a contraption they call a "dolly" which basically holds the crankshaft in place while the crankshaft pulley bolt is torqued down. This tool is not necessarily required, as in most cases you should be able to make your own device that serves the same purpose, as explained in the procedures below.

• Torque Multiplier - A torque multiplier is essentially a breaker bar with an internal gear reduction mechanism, typically providing on the order of a 3-4 to 1 gear reduction. In order to torque the crankshaft pulley properly, you will need a torque multiplier. Without one, you will not be able to completely torque the crank pulley bolt, period.

• Belt Tension gauge - To properly set the tension of the timing belt, which is vital to keeping the engine in time, a timing belt tension gauge is required. We use an OTC 6673. Deutz produces a specific gauge for their applications if you'd prefer to go that route, but the OTC unit works just fine and is a fraction of the price.

Disclaimer - we recommend that this repair only be carried out by an experienced, qualified technician with proper training and qualifications. Severe, even catastrophic engine damage can occur if these repairs are not performed properly.

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Deutz 1011 injector pumps

• Unless you've already confirmed that the fuel rack needs to be replaced, start by testing it. Remove the fuel rack inspection bolt (10mm socket/wrench) located just right of the cylinder 2 injection pump (note - cylinder 1 on a Deutz diesel is nearest the crankshaft output, not the front of the engine). Reference fullsize image for clarification.

• With the inspection bolt removed you can see the fuel rack, which has a small slot cut into it that is accessible through the inspection hole. Use a small screwdriver or pick to slide the fuel rack towards the flywheel of the engine, then release. If the rack moves very little, is tight, and/or does not spring back rapidly when released, it is not working properly. You should get roughly 1/2" of smooth movement and a sharp spring back when actuating it manually.

Remove lower timing cover

• Remove any accessories necessary to access the engine (in our case, for example, we removed the hood, hydraulic oil cooler, and air filter assembly in order to open up our workspace).

• Completely drain the engine oil.

• Remove the lower timing belt cover. It is held in place by two 10mm bolts and one "safety star". The safety star is a tamper proof security fastener requiring a special 5 point star bit to remove. If you can manage to free it without acquiring the proper tool, it serves no purpose other than keeping someone from tampering with the engine and does not need to be replaced.

Removing upper timing cover

• If applicable, remove the accessory drive pulley from the crankshaft. Do NOT remove the center crankshaft bolt, as the engine will lose time at this stage and it will require a professional to re-time the engine. Only remove the outer bolts that hold the accessory drive pulley (15mm socket) in place.

Upper timing cover

• Remove the upper timing belt cover (various bolts requiring 10mm socket).

Deutz 1011 camshaft timing alignment hole

• Locate the camshaft timing alignment hole to the left of the engine oil filter, then remove the bolt and sealing washer (10mm socket, refer to arrow in fullsize image).

• Next, you'll need to find top dead center of the front-most cylinder (cylinder #2 in a two cylinder, cylinder #3 in a three cylinder, cylinder #4 in a four cylinder). This is accomplished by rotating the crankshaft central bolt (32 mm) clockwise until the hole in the camshaft aligns with the hole through the engine block.

Cam dowel installed

• Insert the Deutz camshaft alignment dowel through the camshaft alignment hole, hand thread it as much as possible and then tighten it down snug. If the alignment dowel will not thread into the engine block, then the front-most cylinder is not perfectly at TDC - you may have to rock the crankshaft back and forth slightly until the dowel slides in completely.

Deutz 1011 crankshaft alignment hole

• Locate the crankshaft alignment hole on the opposite side of the engine as the camshaft alignment hole, then remove the bolt and sealing washer (10mm socket, refer to arrow in fullsize image).

• Carefully insert then thread into to place and snug up the crankshaft alignment dowel. If the dowel will not insert, the timing of the engine is off and you've run into bigger problems than expected. If the engine is in time and the camshaft alignment dowel has been installed, than the crankshaft dowel should insert and thread into place with ease.

Removal of timing belt

• With both the camshaft and crankshaft alignment dowels in place, the engine will stay in time while you make the necessary repairs. If the cam and crankshaft dowels are NOT installed, do NOT continue.

• Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley (8 mm allen), then remove the timing belt.

• Remove the governor inspection cover (2 x 5 mm allen) located to the left and just below the camshaft timing pulley. Be careful not to damage the gasket so it may be reused.

• Remove the oil dipstick, then the oil pump (bottom left, series of external torx bolts).

Removing camshaft pulley

• Remove the camshaft pulley by holding the 35 mm outer nut with a wrench and loosening the center bolt with a 22 mm socket. You must NOT allow any pressure to be applied to the camshaft, as you risk damaging the camshaft alignment dowel and the camshaft itself.

Removing crankshaft pulley

• Remove the crankshaft pulley. Deutz manufactures a series of special tools for this job as, just like in the case of the camshaft, you can NOT apply any pressure to the crankshaft or you risk damaging the alignment dowel. We decided to save some money by building a mechanism that attaches to the crankshaft accessory drive and is wedged against the frame of the machine. Then, we used a large 3/4" drive breaker bar and 32 mm socket to loosen the bolt.

• This nut is extremely tight. Be sure that no pressure is put on the crankshaft itself or the timing alignment dowel may be damaged. In our case, we installed our homemade lever to the crankshaft using the accessory drive bolts and positioned it against the frame. Then, we removed the crankshaft alignment dowel (just to be safe), loosened the crankshaft bolt without allowing the crankshaft to rotate, then reinstalled the crankshaft alignment dowel.

Removing front cover

• Remove the alternator (if applicable).

• Remove the electric fuel shutoff solenoid from the front of the engine (two bolts with 10mm heads).

• The front cover is held in place by a series of long bolts with a 13mm head and several smaller external torx bolts near the bottom connecting the cover to the oil pan. Remove all these bolts and then carefully pry the front cover off. The cover will be stubborn as it is sealed with RTV silicon. We were successful in using a razor knife and small screwdriver to loosen the sealant, then the cover slid right off. Do not attempt to force the cover off - verify that all fasteners have been removed (this cover was held in place by a total of 15 bolts) before prying.

Deutz 1011 injector pump removal

• All Deutz 1011 Series engines feature an injection pump for each individual cylinder. Remove the bango fittings for the fuel supply lines and each injector line (17mm flare nut wrench), then remove the injection pump hold down bolts (13mm) and carefully extract the injector pumps one at a time. Number each pump as they will need to be replaced in the same cylinder they were removed - do not mix and match. Remember, the cylinder closest to the flywheel is cylinder 1 on a Deutz diesel!

 

Fuel control rod removal

• Remove the 8mm allen head plug just below the fuel rack (refer to arrow in fullsize image), then use a punch and small hammer to press out the fuel rack pin. The fuel rack will now slide out of the engine block (note - may be tight, difficult to remove if bent).

Bent fuel rack

• This fuel rack was severely damaged and thus the engine would not run. We believe that an injector pump was reinstalled incorrectly during an unrelated repair, bending the control rod. This machine had reportedly been to multiple repair facilities prior to ending up in our hands.

Front cover/govenor removed

• With the front cover off, now is a good time to check that all components of the governor and related linkages are undamaged and operating freely.

• Install the new fuel rack and verify that it functions properly. It should operate smoothly and spring back when released.

• Clean all remnants of silicon from the front cover and engine block where the front cover mounts.

• Run a small, roughly 1/4" bead of oil resistant RTV silicon along the entire sealing surface of the front engine cover, then reinstall it. Snug all bolts, allow silicon to cure (typically 24 hours, follow manufacturer's directions), then torque all bolts to 21 N-m in a criss-cross fashion.

• Refill the crankcase with engine oil.

Crankshaft dolly

• Reinstall the governor inspection cover, oil pump, and fuel solenoid/shutoff.

• Install the crankshaft timing pulley, hand tightening the center bolt. Install the Deutz "dolly" or your homemade device in order to keep the crankshaft from rotating while this bolt is torqued down. See diagram for the basis of our mechanism.

• With the "dolly" installed, the crankshaft should not be able to rotate in the clockwise direction. Remove the crankshaft alignment dowel as a safety measure so that it cannot be damaged while torquing the crankshaft pulley.

 

Torquing crankshaft and camshaft pulley

• Torque the crankshaft bolt to 130 N-m initially, then rotate an additional 210 degrees. A simple way of doing this is to draw or scribe a line on the crankshaft bolt head at the 12 o' clock position, and another line on the crankshaft pulley at the 7 o' clock position. When the line on the bolt reaches the line of the pulley, the bolt has turned 210 degrees. This is where you're going to need a torque multiplier - this bolt requires an immense amount of torque.

• Once the bolt is torqued, remove the "dolly" and reinsert the crankshaft alignment dowel.

Important - if the crankshaft was properly secured prior to torquing down the crankshaft timing pulley bolt, the alignment dowel should slide back into place with ease. If it does not, slightly rock the crankshaft left to right until it aligns and slides into place. Do NOT rotate the engine over with the alignment dowel removed, as the engine will lose time.

Deutz 1011 timing belt tensioner

• Install the cam pulley loose so that it spins freely on the camshaft.

• Install the belt tension pulley hand tight. You'll want to make sure that the indented allen head (not the bolt) is in the 2 to 3 o' clock position so that it does not press against the bolt sticking out of the front of the engine in the 7 o' clock position (see picture for clarification). The tensioner pulley rotates on an eccentric path - failure to clear this bolt will result in damage to the pulley when it is tightened down.

 

Installing timing belt

• Install the timing belt, then check for even stick-out with a tape measure. The belt needs to ride at the same depth on each of the pulleys - we used the engine block as our measuring point, adjusting the belt at each pulley as to obtain equal depth. It's important that the belt is installed straight prior to tensioning.

 

 

 

Setting belt tension

• Install the belt tension gauge midspan between the oil pump and camshaft pulleys, as pictured. It may be a tight fit depending on what type of gauge you are using.

• Use an allen wrench inserted into the indented port (not the external bolt) of the tensioner to apply belt tension. Rotate clockwise to tighten. Tension belt to 530 Newtons (120 lbs). If you have obtained a unit-less gauge, refer to the products directions.

• Torque tensioner pulley to 33 ft-lbs (8mm allen) at the proper belt tension.

Torquing camshaft pulley

• Torque the camshaft pulley to 22 ft-lbs, then an additional 210 degrees. As with the crankshaft pulley, mark the 12 o' clock position on the center bolt and the 7 o' clock position on the larger, outer nut. Secure the outer nut with a 35 mm wrench and tighten the center bolt using a 22 mm socket. Do not allow force to be applied to the outer nut; the goal is to apply no force on the camshaft itself as this can damage the alignment dowel and the camshaft.

• Once the tensioner pulley and camshaft pulley have been torqued to spec, remove the camshaft and crankshaft alignment dowels. Do not forget the sealing washers when reinstalling the bolts in these holes.

Injector pump installation tip

• Rotate the engine clockwise at least 4 rotations, then check the belt tension once more. If the belt tension is not within spec, you will need to repeat the timing process once again.

• Reinstall the injector pumps, fuel lines, fuel solenoid, accessory pulley, alternator, and any other odds and ends that have been removed.

• When installing the injector pumps, pop the small pin out of the top and insert a metal rod (1/8" welding rod fits perfectly). Use this to keep the control linkage at the bottom of the injector pump in place while lining it up with the fuel control rod. Do not force an injector in place as this may damage the fuel rack - they should install relatively smoothly if everything is lined up properly.

• Once everything is completely re-assembled, start the engine and test for functionality. It may take multiple cranking sessions to prime the fuel system. You may choose to bleed the fuel system one injector pump at a time to reduce cranking.