A special tool is used to pry the EGR valve loose once the mounting bolts are removed, as tens of thousands of miles worth of soot/carbon build up usually prevents the valve from being muscled out without some sort of leverage. Our solution was to sacrifice an old flathead screwdriver; heat it up with an oxy-acetylene torch and put a 90 degree bend about 1 inch from the bottom.
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• Begin by locating the EGR valve. On the 6.0L Power Stroke, the EGR valve bolts to the intake manifold directly behind the air horn. If you've got sausage fingers, it's going to be a tight fit.
• Start by removing the wiring harness that plugs into the top of the EGR valve. A small flathead screwdriver can be used to unlock the clasp on the harness.
• Remove the two bolts that secure the EGR valve with a 5/16" socket and extension. It's a tight fit, so you may need to use a long pair of needle nose pliers to recover the bolts once they have been unthreaded.
• Grabbing the top of the EGR valve, you should be able to pull it to one side just enough to slide your tool underneath the lip. Pry it slightly on one side, then the other side, and repeat until it can be removed. Do not bend the tabs if you plan on cleaning and reusing the valve.
• With the valve removed, clean the EGR port with a rag and a shop vac. The goal is to remove all remnants of carbon buildup from the port.
• Reinstall the EGR valve in reverse order, using a small amount of anti-seize on the bolts. Since the intake manifold is cast aluminum, do not overtighten the bolts as you will risk stripping the threads.
• If the original valve is still in decent shape, you can clean it, replace the o-rings, and reuse it when needed. Though this one is dirty, there is nothing else wrong with it and we'll be keeping it as a spare.